Thursday 20.06.02 Andrey Shvyrev, known also under the nick Glebych, gave the
interview to the web portal Dombai.Info, where represented his own point of view both
on the recent events and the following climbing season in Dombai.
P>- Andrey we are waiting news from
Krasnaya Poliana, Elbrus region, and ofcourse from Dombai.
- Competitions in Sochi in the begining of June, where took
part 21 regional teams of Ministry of Emergency situations (all teams from
the South of Russia and the most experienced teams from the other regions),
- was quite serious event. Among the general disciplines such as cross-
country racing and the complemetary exercises on
the horizontal bar, relay-racing should be specialy emphasized.
The distance was more then 13 km. The interval between the starting teams
was 20 min. Stages: rocky climbing in pairs, complementary vertical
transporting of a "victim", sporting orientation.
Stages appeared to be very difficult for most of the teams. For example,
the teams from Astrahan and Kalmyki refused to start the rocky stage.
When the river racing sportsmen were dropping from the rafts like
ripe pears from pear-tree, and only helmets and the life jackets safe them.
Cherkesk team won, while the team from Stavropol (my native town) came
into first dozen because of absence of two their leaders, who went to some more
The next competiotions for the regional rescue teams will come to plan on october 2002
at the same place not far from Krasnaya Poliana.
- Could you please tell us about the following climbing competitions
- On friday afternoon (21.06) I'll come to Dombai.
Я в пятницу утром еду в Домбай, после обеда буду там. Friday is the starting
day for all the participants. They wiil stai in Dombai while the competitions
will take placeon the rocks in the Karachaevsk neighbourhood where organizers
will transfer all the sportsmen.
Right hand near the way to Dombai not far from Karachaevsk there a is quite
safety rocky massive with partly developed routes. It is here that this
competitions take place here the third time. Last season there were 46
participants fighting in pair-climbing.
This year there'll be pure climbing (without pair interference) with only judge's
insurence rope. My due at this competitions is just providing rescue. Judgement
is through V. Shipilov.
- Don't you know the details on the recent story of pioneer climbing on Kiukiurtlu?
- I took part in this adventure! The 5 participants - moscovites - are really
skilfull and experienced people, but the climbing like this must be executed with
the attraction of oficial observers as well as rescue teams, which they didn't attract.
There were not only scree coming on them, but the avalanche too. The route starts with
the wall of negative angle then coming gradually to vertical one - so there are a lot of
screes and "shuting rocks" there.
The weather was not good too - among all the days the only one was simply cloudy,
the others were full of snow and rainfalling. And at the departure day 20.06 the very
strong rain started, the result of this event is already known to everybody from the TV news.
The wet weather is welknown to stimulate the scree and rockfall,
I received the strike to my head from the small stone (he is laughing pointing
to the scratch on the forehead). The bad weather and long approach with
the heavy rucksacks were too exhausting so the decidion to break the attempt
to climb on the Kiukirtlu was very wise.
- Are you going to participate the actions on the Elbrus ?
On July 25 there is going to be the mass climbing to Elbrus from the North. A lot
of teams including very small one from all over the Russia.
It takes 3 weeks to the action called "Elbrus from the North". As for the Dombai regional rescue
team they will provide the secure through Dushman and Vitalik Boublik (official
"teamsters"). In case of work wiilll be needed they organize working groups among
the participants and then cordinate and mange them. Why the Dombai secure team is so small ?
We have some employee in our service leaving for the exams and I must stay at Dombai.
it is easier to go by firn then by scree;
most glaciers remain to be closed, i.e. most of crevasses are closed tightly by
the snow corks so you can neglect them in overcoming the glacier and go stright upwards without
zigzags and jumps.
The route to Elbrus is in excelent state: there is snow at 2000 m and higher,
so all the screes arec closed. Elbrus is totaly white. This year will become
open space to the amateurs of both snowboarding and ski-tour. And this is true
not only for the North slope of the Elbrus. The only difference is that while on
the South slope with the sun rising the snow is melting transfroming into the porrige,
on the North slope the firn is quite strong becoming stronger with the hight.
There are a number of advantages in the situation with a lot of snow on the slope. Some of them are:
In the Elbrus suburb (Prielbrusie) the situation is very difficult. Alot of snow upstairs
results in rising possibility of mountain torrents. Since that some of the climbing
trainings changed their plans in favour of Dombai against Elbrus region. More so the
modern prices in Dombai became more favorable then in Elbrus region
Routes in Dombai are still not ready - a lot of snow. There is snow on all the
routes, and in the noon it is melting and flowing, wet rocks, screes, so climbing is
still not comfortable. We hope that everything will be OK till the mass arrival of climbers
in the middle of July.
- What are you going to do this climbing season ?
This season seem to be "hot". Resulting from the number of combined and
single teams which informed me to come to Dombai, this year will be more crowded
in Dombai. My colleges told me that in my absence my telephone never stopped to ring
neither noon nor night. Now I'll come tomorrow to Dombai and be ready to answer
- Your wishes to our readers ?
It was the first time today through all over the season that I came
to civilization and saw the content of your Web site www.dombai.info.
I was surprized by the fullness of its info about climbing in Dombai and how
professional it represents the issue. It is probably the best site dedicated
the Western Caucasus. I found that more info and news you got from the contacts
to me and you published this info to everybodies eyes. Someone could think that
the programm "Climbing with guide" which is highly represented on the site, is pure
commercial project and the team Dombai.Info together with me are getting much profit
in it. Believe me this boys are working absolutely for free. As for my "prices", they
are so far from profitable and commercial, that all the profit just compensates the
life expencies of my family (living far from here), nothing more.
If this season wiil be more profitable I'd rather help this unselfish ascets, THE REAL
FRIENDS of WESTERN CAUCASUS - this words don't contain any exaggeration.
I call to everybody to whom the info from the site www.Dombai.Info became usefull,
Let our mountains remain clear!!! Let Western Caucasus be better then Switzerland!!
- Thank you Andrey for your appreciation! In addition we want to emphasize
that www.dombai.info is really nonprofit project. We try to reprezent information of
maximum external evidence and unprjudiced. We never agree to advertize for money
or to recommend neither bad hotels nor bad guides. The counter help of the hotels
like "Gornye Vershiny" or "Peak Ine" was never expressed in money equivalence.
All they gave was just discounts for accomodation and cordial acceptanc. All
expencies on getting info and especially interurban telephone talks we really incur
by our own and we'll be glad to any even finance help.
Glebych resume details (Shvyrev Andrey Glebych)